As I look back on my six weeks in Cambodia I have to say that it was a really wonderful experience. Previously, I would arrive in Phnom Penh for a few days or a week as part of a vacation. We would meet with a bunch of people and take the students for a trip for a couple of days. While we always enjoyed the time, it increasingly got harder and harder to accomplish everything we needed to in the short time we were in the city. The chance to spend over six weeks in Phnom Penh was an amazing opportunity to learn about the city and all its nuances and peculiarities. During the whole time that I was in Cambodia, the temperature was between 30 – 35 degrees every day with very little rain. It was an awesome experience and it would take a series of blogs to explain all that I have learned about Cambodia.
It was also well timed in order to find a new dorm for the students. Marnie and Ford had generously funded a dorm from 2007 to December 31st, 2014 on a month to month basis. The lack of a secure facility was the major threat facing CLEW and we knew it and we often talked about what would happen if we received a sudden eviction notice. Marnie and Ford told us that we shouldn’t worry about an early notice. However, Chuck worries about everything. Property values have skyrocketed in Cambodia over the past few years and we were afraid that we would not find a suitable dorm that was within a reasonable travel distance from the Royal University for Law and Economics (RULE).
While it was action packed, it really was incredible that we accomplished so much. From the leasing of the new dorm to outfitting it with so many items to moving the girls in. Although it was a push to get everything done, Bandol, Try, the CLEW students and I managed to lease premises, furnish it and arrange an Open House on my last weekend, a week after the students moved in.
It was also well timed in order to find a new dorm for the students. Marnie and Ford had generously funded a dorm from 2007 to December 31st, 2014 on a month to month basis. The lack of a secure facility was the major threat facing CLEW and we knew it and we often talked about what would happen if we received a sudden eviction notice. Marnie and Ford told us that we shouldn’t worry about an early notice. However, Chuck worries about everything. Property values have skyrocketed in Cambodia over the past few years and we were afraid that we would not find a suitable dorm that was within a reasonable travel distance from the Royal University for Law and Economics (RULE).
While it was action packed, it really was incredible that we accomplished so much. From the leasing of the new dorm to outfitting it with so many items to moving the girls in. Although it was a push to get everything done, Bandol, Try, the CLEW students and I managed to lease premises, furnish it and arrange an Open House on my last weekend, a week after the students moved in.
It is incredible to consider that on Friday December 5th, twenty-four girls were living in a small duplex with 2 bathrooms and one big room that doubled as a classroom and a bedroom. The main room was also used as a place to share a meal (sitting on the floor) if more than about 6 wanted to eat together in the kitchen. The kitchen was dark and dank, laundry was done in a dark alleyway under the stairs. They had one small fridge, one stove and a couple of rice cookers.
Now, in the new dorm, they have both sides of a four storey duplex with 10 bedrooms and 12 bathrooms. The two kitchens each have a full size fridge, a water purifier (the girls used to exist on bottled water) with both hot & cold water, a stove and rice cooker. The kitchens open to a sunny back yard where they can wash and hang their laundry. The rooftop patio is large and spacious to escape the heat, enjoy a constant refreshing breeze and where they can read, study or play games in a safe environment.
Now, in the new dorm, they have both sides of a four storey duplex with 10 bedrooms and 12 bathrooms. The two kitchens each have a full size fridge, a water purifier (the girls used to exist on bottled water) with both hot & cold water, a stove and rice cooker. The kitchens open to a sunny back yard where they can wash and hang their laundry. The rooftop patio is large and spacious to escape the heat, enjoy a constant refreshing breeze and where they can read, study or play games in a safe environment.
The students with their roommates by their new bedrooms and studying on the roof (unfortunately not all of the students were there when I took these pictures)
The most rewarding part of my trip was getting to know all of our students, especially meeting the first year students. I spent as much time with them as I could and I am always impressed by how grateful they are for the opportunity that they have been given, and to be so worthy of a post-secondary education. They are all wonderful and every one of them is unique with a special story. It was nice to be able to spend time with smaller groups to get to know more about them. I learned about teaching English as a second language and I am thinking about taking courses in the subject for my future trips to Cambodia. It was a privilege and a pleasure to have such continual access to these students over an extended period of time.
The magic of CLEW, however, was on full display in the four new students that we were able to admit into the program in a short period of time before I left. It was remarkable to me that we could take young women from the provinces without a future and transform their lives in two days, and finally, in a matter of two hours. It emphasized to me how important CLEW’s mission is, within Cambodia. We have the power to instantly bestow a future.
The magic of CLEW, however, was on full display in the four new students that we were able to admit into the program in a short period of time before I left. It was remarkable to me that we could take young women from the provinces without a future and transform their lives in two days, and finally, in a matter of two hours. It emphasized to me how important CLEW’s mission is, within Cambodia. We have the power to instantly bestow a future.
We have now had 52 students registered in CLEW. We have lost two students (one went back to her home province after second year and the other was pulled out by her mother to go work in a factory in Korea with her sister) and we have twenty-three students currently enrolled. Chuck talked to a World Bank representative in September who told him that he thought CLEW should expect a 40 to 50% failure rate. A 4% failure rate was very surprising to him. Of course, at CLEW, we feel that the loss of two students is too high.
I enjoyed Phnom Penh although there definitely were pros and cons. I very much liked the modern apartment that I found with its infinity pool on the roof. I also enjoyed the many nice restaurants in my neighbourhood, the reasonable prices that were available throughout Phnom Penh (particularly when Bandol or the students negotiated for me), the tuk tuks that were available whenever I needed them and the many nice people that I met while I was there. I also loved seeing the monks everywhere with their sunny yellow umbrellas shading them from the hot sun.
I enjoyed Phnom Penh although there definitely were pros and cons. I very much liked the modern apartment that I found with its infinity pool on the roof. I also enjoyed the many nice restaurants in my neighbourhood, the reasonable prices that were available throughout Phnom Penh (particularly when Bandol or the students negotiated for me), the tuk tuks that were available whenever I needed them and the many nice people that I met while I was there. I also loved seeing the monks everywhere with their sunny yellow umbrellas shading them from the hot sun.
I really enjoyed networking with various groups and NGO’s while I was there such as Plan and KAPE (Kampuchean Action for Primary Education). It was so great to connect with the new executives of Plan Cambodia and to establish a new relationship with KAPE to help us recruit new students. The Women’s International Group (WIG) was also a lot of fun as the women were all so interesting to talk to. We met weekly for coffee and then Bandol and I were able to join their Christmas lunch.
The traffic was quite frustrating and it bothered me that one couldn’t walk anywhere, other than on Sisowath Quay along the waterfront. The sidewalks were full with parked cars, tuk tuks, motos or construction material. It shocked me how drivers would not yield to anyone and motos would cut in and out between the cars. The roads both in and outside the city were terrible. Quite simply, it was chaotic in a wonderful Asian way, reflecting the unbridled growth of the city that promises economic niches that our students can find employment within. My first trip to Cambodia was in April 2006 and the changes since then are extraordinary.
I have a much better sense of Phnom Penh (apart from the traffic) after having been there for more than six weeks. I have seen the emergence of a middle class, by going to the new housing developments that have a special Cambodian architectural flavour but would not be out of step in Canada and other “western” countries I have visited. It is wonderful to see such a development and gives me hope for the future notwithstanding the challenges that Cambodia has. It is this hope in the future that fuels my belief in the change that CLEW students will contribute to the development of their country.
I have a much better sense of Phnom Penh (apart from the traffic) after having been there for more than six weeks. I have seen the emergence of a middle class, by going to the new housing developments that have a special Cambodian architectural flavour but would not be out of step in Canada and other “western” countries I have visited. It is wonderful to see such a development and gives me hope for the future notwithstanding the challenges that Cambodia has. It is this hope in the future that fuels my belief in the change that CLEW students will contribute to the development of their country.
A tenement apartment building in downtown Phnom Penh likely to be demolished for new buildings. The poor living there will be displaced to the outskirts of the city, reflecting a broader problem that Cambodia has - land rights for the poor. Many of our students are very interested in these problems and are interested in a law degree to help their communities.
Skype session with Queen's Pre-Law Society
Skype was a great way to keep in touch with my family back home. In addition, we were able to host a couple of Skype sessions with two of our sponsors. One of them was the Queen’s Pre-Law Society and the other was LexisNexis. Queen’s has supported CLEW for a number of years. Each fall, we go to Kingston to meet the new executive and students to explain about CLEW. This year, when Chuck went to talk to them about CLEW, we set up a Skype session. Given the time difference, the CLEW students had to get up at 5 a.m. to meet at my apartment for the skype at 6 a.m. We had to limit the Skype session to four students and there were three first year students and one third year. Bandol participated to help translate and explain the program to the Queen’s students from her unique point of view. It went really well and afterwards I took the students for breakfast at the Cambodian equivalent of Starbucks. It took them a while to order their food because they weren’t used to the menu.
Skype Session with LexisNexis
The second Skype session was with LexisNexis from the dorm the Friday after the girls had moved in. It was a bit stressful because we weren’t sure that the internet was going to work. LexisNexis was going to have a number of staff (I believe about 70) at their head office to meet the students. In addition to being introduced to some of the graduates and fourth year students, they also met the two new students that were sponsored as a result of their generous donation to furnish the dorm. Fortunately, everything went well and the session was a great success. It also happened to be on Sreyneang's birthday as well as Danann Hawes birthday so we sang Happy Birthday to them in Khmer and English. Afterwards, the girls presented Sreyneang with a cake!
For my last night, we had a pizza party at the dorm with the students, Bandol, Marnie & Ford and Pagna. It was a nice evening. Then Bunna, their English teacher, asked who would like to go to the airport in the morning to see me off. Most of them put up their hands except those who had classes in the morning.
When I arrived at the airport, thirteen students were there with Bunna to say goodbye. I knew it was going to be difficult but I didn’t realize how difficult it would be. The girls presented me with a notebook in which each of the girls had written a note to me on each page of the book with their pictures. It was so touching with all of these heartfelt messages that I couldn’t control my tears as I glanced through the pages. After I regained some control, we took a group photo and then I said goodbye. I went into the airport and checked my big bag. As I turned to go through security, I started to get choked up again. Then I looked up and all of the girls were at the window waving goodbye. Well, as you can imagine, I totally lost it again and had to go into the nearest bathroom to try to pull it together before going through security. What a tough departure and a touching end to an incredible experience!!!
When I arrived at the airport, thirteen students were there with Bunna to say goodbye. I knew it was going to be difficult but I didn’t realize how difficult it would be. The girls presented me with a notebook in which each of the girls had written a note to me on each page of the book with their pictures. It was so touching with all of these heartfelt messages that I couldn’t control my tears as I glanced through the pages. After I regained some control, we took a group photo and then I said goodbye. I went into the airport and checked my big bag. As I turned to go through security, I started to get choked up again. Then I looked up and all of the girls were at the window waving goodbye. Well, as you can imagine, I totally lost it again and had to go into the nearest bathroom to try to pull it together before going through security. What a tough departure and a touching end to an incredible experience!!!
I live in Toronto but part of my heart will always be in Cambodia.